The evolution of an island | The Freelance Explorer

The evolution of an island

Like a small child, I eagerly gather around the storytellers of Lesvos. The old-timers who were here before the media circus arrived. Helpers who roamed the island a year ago, …

Overnighting at the Olive Grove | The Freelance Explorer

Overnighting at the Olive Grove

I’m sitting shoulder to shoulder in a crowded bar, smoke wafts and a Grecian vocalist belts out a blues rendition the red hot chilli peppers alongside a double-bass. The crowd …

Uncertainty and Empty Oceans | The Freelance Explorer

Uncertainty and Empty Oceans

Once a week I let go and get away. I escape to the relative normality of a cafe overlooking the ocean and I let the weight of the world fall …

The Days With No Boats | The Freelance Explorer

The Days With No Boats

I’m sitting in the reception, a small brightly coloured room at the entrance of Pikpa. To my right is a pile of drums taking a break from their usual residence …

Some mornings.. | The Freelance Explorer

Some mornings..

I know the contours of these mountain ranges like the lines of my own palms. Turkey mesmerises me as I gaze into it’s coastlines each morning watching for boats, the faintest …

A Rainy Sunday in Panagiouda | The Freelance Explorer image 2

A Rainy Sunday in Panagiouda

Gulls swoop and dive, riding the currents of the stormy air, oblivious to the tumultuous conditions south down the shore line. Weather conditions have been dire overnight and the ferry to …

Day One: Arriving into Lesvos | The Freelance Explorer image 1

Day One: Arriving into Lesvos

    After a long, sleepless, overnight ferry (as you can see by my exhausted, windswept look and terribly dark eyes!), I have arrived into the port of Mytilene, the …